Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
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The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 5402, shown at Basel in 1972, is the watch that made a steel sports watch a luxury object. Gérald Genta sketched it in a single night: an octagonal bezel clamped by eight visible hexagonal white gold screws over an exposed gasket, a "Petite Tapisserie" dial in deep blue, and a bracelet integrated into the case and tapering across 154 hand-finished components. The 39 mm monocoque case is 7.15 mm thick around the ultra-thin automatic calibre 2121. At CHF 3,300 it cost more than the gold dress watches of the day, which is precisely what made it a provocation; a run planned at 1,000 pieces eventually reached 6,050 across all metals. (Monochrome, AP Chronicles)